The Faroe Islands: Leaving Is Not Always Easy

Small Fuel Dock, Torshavn

Though it would have been nice to spend to spend another week in the Faroe Islands, we had to settle for 4 days as the weather was ideal for crossing to Iceland. On the way out of Torshavn harbour we attempted to squeeze onto the small fuel dock, between a 90 degree concrete wall and large slopping boulders. When we were almost alongside, we realized the dock was indeed too short and moved Snow Dragon away before the dinghy and outboard motor hanging in the davits came in contact with the concrete wall.

We had enough diesel to get to Iceland but it was much more cost-effective to fill in the Faroe Islands. There was a fuel depot nearby so we thought it was worth pulling up to the commercial dock and enquiring whether they could send a truck. Sure enough they understood the difficulty getting into the official fuel dock and had no problem sending a truck. We were a little confused when they asked us what kind of diesel we wanted, a choice that is not normally given. In the end we settled for the same kind the fishing boats were using, figuring that was what Snow Dragon was used to.

Fueling, Torshavn

Once Snow Dragon was topped up with 500 liters of diesel we continued around the south of Streymoy and through Vestmannasund. On the west side of Streymoy, we did another weather check to see if we could spend another day in the Faroe Islands without loosing our weather window to Iceland. The forecast showed favorable southerly quadrant wind for two days, a day of variables and then northerly for the rest of the week. We decided to risk the variables turning into headwinds and stopped at Tjornuvik, which came highly recommended by an American photographer who we met in Torshavn and our cruising guide, which listed it as the best anchorage in the Faroe Islands. 

Entering Tjornuvik 

The stop was worth the risk. At anchor we could see glorious sea stacks, explore a hidden waterfall by dinghy and walk around a delightful village. The lower slopes of the huge amphitheater were covered with very lush green grass that was soon going to be cut for hay to feed the sheep in the winter. 

We left the Faroe Islands with both sadness and excitement. Our time in the North Atlantic showed us just how spectacular the sailing based travel could be in the area and we longed to return to Ireland, Scotland and the Faroe Islands. Finally after one more trip to see the waterfall, we pulled anchor and said goodbye to Tjornuvik. Our one consolation was that we knew from previous experience that Iceland and Greenland were well worth the effort.

Krystina Inspecting The Hidden Waterfall, Tjornuvik

For more photos please click on Leaving Faroe Islands Album