Sunday, November 8, 2009

Extra Stops


We didn’t get very far from Kirkenes before discovering an irresistible anchorage at Ellinghamma. The calm, windless conditions made the decision to stop easy and after getting Snow Dragon settled we headed for shore. Though Ellinghamma was part of the mainland, it had an island like feel. After watching the sunset from the summit we made our way down a steep wooded gulley.  

With a long sail ahead of us we left early the following morning. Our plan had been to go directly back to Vardo but strong headwind persuaded us to stop at Vadso where the brightly painted houses and purple fish processing plant gave the town a cheery feel.

We spent a calm night until the wind picked up the following morning, pinning Snow Dragon to the high dock. We were concerned that the stantions would be damaged if she healed over and hit the dock. Since we could not move until the wind dropped, we went in search of extra tires to pad the dock. We posed our problem to some friendly fishermen who drove to the local filling station and returned with six large tires, giving Snow Dragon plenty of extra padding. Once the new tires were in place, we were able to have one more wander around town before dark.

With limited space on board, our souvenirs tend to be utilitarian. In Vardso we found a blue ceramic butter dish that made its way back to Snow Dragon’s galley. Even the smallest towns in Norway have had fantastic kitchen stores. Though the butter dish was made in France, it will always remind us of Vardso.

After spending two nights in Vadso we headed back to Vardo to pick up Snow Dragon’s new anchor windlass motor. That had been ordered from California by e-mail while we were in Svalbard. It was then collected by a friend and mailed to us in Norway. The sailing conditions were great and were able to make good time arrive during business hours. After worrying that its arrival would be delayed by customs, we were relieved to find the motor waiting at the post office. 

For more photos please click on Ellinghamma & Vadso Album