Monday, June 17, 2013

Faroe Islands: Fog, Blogging And A Day Of Pancakes


Tallship, Tvoroyri

The sunshine we enjoyed in Scotland disappeared when we arrived in the fog covered Faroe Islands after an easy two day passage from St Kilda.  In Tvoroyri, we hibernated at anchor, using the downtime to catch up on creative pursuits. Frances worked on drawing and painting while Krystina finally tackled restarting the blog. We braved the rain and fog and ventured into town for a walk and hot chocolate at a cafĂ© that had originally been a traditional fisherman’s supply store. The fishermen could purchase their supplies on credit and repay it six months later when they returned from sea.

In hope of getting our propane tanks filled and the electric start on our outboard looked at we headed over to Torshavn, the capital of The Faroe islands. The thick fog only lifted long enough to give a few patchy glimpses of land while we motored in uncomfortable, confused seas. At the dock a British sailor helped us with our lines and asked us over for a drink. After a lovely visit we invited him and his partner for breakfast on Snow Dragon.

We returned from our neighbor’s at 2am and after a few short hours of sleep, prepared a large batch of sourdough pancake batter. When our guests didn’t show up as planned, Krystina went over to their boat to double check they were joining us. It turned out they had decided not to, leaving us with a large batch of batter and only two of us to eat it.


We decided the best solution was to eat pancakes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In the middle of our breakfast of pancakes, bacon and homemade blueberry and quince jam, the customs official dropped by to clear us into the Faroe Islands. He declined our offer of pancakes but was happy to let us answer questions while we chewed.


For lunch our pancakes were topped with onions, mushrooms and a fried egg. By dinner we couldn’t possibly face another pancake and opted for leftovers. Our pancake overdose subsided in time for lunch the following day and the remaining pancakes were eaten with camembert, green onion, bacon and basil. Followed by pancakes with camembert and jam for dessert.    

In the mean time we successfully got our American propane tanks filled. The company even picked them up and delivered them, saving us an expensive taxi ride. Though they are the same fitting as a European commercial bottler, most countries refuse to fill them due to regulations. We also managed to organize a mechanic who showed up at 9.45pm on Friday night in the rain. He was more than happy to work on the outboard but we told him we completely understood if he wanted to come back in the morning when the weather was supposed to be better.  

 Kids In ATraditional Rowing Boat, Torshavn

On Saturday, the fog disappeared and everyone came out to enjoy the sunshine, strolling along the water front and sipping cold drinks outside the cafes. While the rain and fog had made it easy to concentrate on getting the blog up and running, staying motivated during the one sunny day we were likely to see in the Faroe Islands was difficult but Torshavn was Krystina’s last chance for internet access before Iceland. We also had to wait for the mechanic who showed up as promised and fixed our outboard. By the time the mechanic left and Krystina finished uploading photos and her post, the fog had returned. To get more of a feel for the area, we walked into the outskirts of the town and enjoyed being entertained by a playful sheep. 


Video Of Playful Sheep
For more photos please click on Faroe Islands Album

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