Wind Filled Weekend

Hanging Glaciers, Kangerdluk

From Snow Dragon's hatches we could see the smooth granite peaks towering above Kangerdluk but the mountains that came down them were crumbly and dull. The plain landscape and the swell rolling into Kangerdluk, made us look at other options for our Saturday hike. Frances suggested going to Igdlorssuit Havn and making one more attempt to find Krystina's hat. It was a clear, sunny day and going back to the glacier sounded like a great idea. Once we were out in the main channel we realized the strong southeast winds from the impending low were already in effect. With a triple reefed main and staysail we tacked our way into Prins Christian Sund with gusts up to 38 knots.

Our confidence in being able to anchor at Igdlorssuit Havn (60' 10N 44' 04W) was high. It was the anchorage we had used in a much stronger gale that came through when we first arrived in Greenland. With both the wind and swell fighting against us, it was difficult for Krystina to keep Snow Dragon in position while Frances let out the large amount of chain that was needed for the deep anchorage. Our first attempt failed when we ended up dropping in 50 meters instead of 30 meters. To increase the chance of the anchor hitting bottom before we got blown into deeper water, we decided to leave the anchor hanging on 20 meters of chain while Krystina repositioned Snow Dragon. On the second try we succeeded in anchoring in 25 meters.

It was too rough to go ashore and we settled into being boat bound for the day. After dinner, while Frances was in the middle of a painting and Krystina was putting the final touches on a blog post. Snow Dragon got blown sideways and we could hear the anchor dragging. The depth sounder showed that we had dragged into deeper water so there was no chance the anchor had securely reset itself. We decided to try the spot we had used during the last gale but found with the different wind direction it put us too close to shore. After a few failed attempts we moved back close to where we had dragged and succeeded in re-anchoring. We left our chain snubber off hopping it would help keep Snow Dragon into the wind, feeling that enough of the shock-loading would be absorbed by the 90 meters of chain.

The next day showed no reprieve from the wind which meant that going to shore was still not an option. By evening, the wind reduced enough that the tide was able to turn Snow Dragon beam to the swell. Making it difficult to sleep with the uncomfortable motion and sound of the waves slapping Snow Dragon's hull. We were rudely awaken by a loud bang which Krystina discovered was caused by a long piece of glacier ice running along Snow Dragon's port side. She decided to stay up and watch for ice but aside from a few pieces on the far side, nothing else appeared.

That afternoon we were finally able to make it to shore. We were both slightly paranoid about being able to get back to the dinghy after our last hike at Igkirssuit Havn entailed and unplanned swim. With 20 meters of extra line added to the already ridiculously long painter, we felt we could spend and hour and a half looking for the hat without getting stranded. Sadly the had could not be found but were glad we had made a second attempt to find it and we enjoyed another walk in the glacial valley.

Glacier, Igdurssuit Haven

We got back to the boat with enough time to move to Aqigssiat (60' 04.7 N 43' 11.7 W), an anchorage at the other end of the sound before dark. From the chart it looked as if it would provide more protection from the southeast wind than other anchorages in the area. The massive east coast icebergs that had been inhabiting the sound when we first arrived had been replaced by smaller pieces of ice form the local glaciers. There were a lot of clear pieces that were difficult to see and large enough to do damage if we hit them at 6 knots. At times we needed to have a bow watch to make sure we did not inadvertently hit them.

The tide was against us, making the 25 miles take longer than usual. Finally at 11pm after five and a half hours of motoring, we arrived at Aqiqssiat. The anchorage looked incredible, its bubbly granite rock still shinning in the fading light. Frances was already planning hiking routes as Krystina watched the depth sounder. We were fairly close to shore before the depth dropped below 100 meters and started to gradually shoal. At first it looked as if we were too close to shore but after getting the anchor set, we realized we were much farther than it had appeared in the dim light.

For more photos please click Wind Filled Weekend Album.