Dried Fish And Ruins

We decided to move on and explore the site of a nearby Norse settlement, since the hot springs at Unatoq were not quite warm enough for a dip with the cold wind. While we were pulling the anchor, a skiff approached and we immediately recognized the seal hunter from Sydproven who was cheerfully shouting "American" as he came up to us. He realized that we were preoccupied with the anchor and left to talk with some people at the dock. When he returned, he generously gave us dried seal and fish. When Krystina thanked him, the friend who was with him gave her more fish. Though Krystina does not eat fish and neither of us are keen on seal, we both understood that the kind gift was a token of friendship that crossed language barriers.

Not only were we glad to see that they were using the seal meat. We were also happy to notice that they were wearing float suits which makes hunting in cold water much safer. It has surprised us that everyone we have seen has had very good modern cold weather gear. After a final wave, they continued up the fjord and we slowly made our way out of the bay. Paying our respects to an elegant iceberg before weaving our way between the islands that separated us from the settlement.

Stone Wall Ruins

The muted, patchy pattern of the mountains reminded Krystina of a calico cat as we motored into the unnamed and mainly uncharted bay (60' 33N 45' 17W) on the west side of Unatoq Fjord. The depth shoaled evenly and we were able to anchor fairly close to shore without discovering any underwater surprises. On shore the bright yellow buttercups were vibrant against the dull sky and dilapidated houses that stood near the ruins. The rectangular shape of the Norse stone foundations immediately differentiated them from the round bases used by the Eskimos. More recent inhabitants had left a broken down barbwire fence that gave an imprisoned feel that we hoped did not exist when the Benedictine convent and other structures including a farm were in existence.

When we walk amongst ruins whether they be Norse or Eskimo, we reflect on our own experience in Greenland. Did they enjoy picking berries as we do or was it more of a chore? Was the taste of the glacier water satisfying or was its icy temperature a curse? Did the beauty of the landscape make up for the hardship and isolation? Questions that only those who inhabited this area long ago can answer.

For more photos please click on Norse Album.