Iceland: Return To Siglufjordur

Snow Dragon Docked In Front Of The Harbour Cafe

Our reception in Siglufjordor was just as special as it was in 2010. Before we could even finish trying Snow Dragon to the dock, Tomas from The Harbour Cafe was down giving Frances a hug and welcoming us back. In the morning, Tomas raised a huge American flag outside his cafe in our honor just as he had done three years ago. When our friend Halldor woke up and saw the flag he asked himself if it was the 4th of July? Then he saw the mast and realized in must be Snow Dragon. Halldor came down to the harbour to welcome us, happy with our surprise arrival as he had not gotten the message that we were returning.

Siglufjordur

To take advantage of a rain free day, we decided to walk to the small forest just outside of town that was planted in the 1940s. Trees are a rare sight in Iceland and it is still not known if the Vikings were referring to trees or shrubs in the Sagas as the same term is used to describe both types of vegetation. While we were wondering through the spruce trees we came across a slide and Frances couldn't resist testing it. 

Frances Testing Out The Slide

When we visited the Harbour Cafe we learned that Tomas was now producing Black Death Beer in addition to his line of Black Death Vodka. We ordered a couple bottles to test his new product and teased him about Black Death not being on tap. He responded by inviting us to his garage were he has a private bar with a keg of Black Death that he uses for parties with friends and to keep the construction workers that are working on his house happy. With pints in hand, Tomas gave us a tour of the garage where he stores an old single cylinder diesel engine that he is planning to restore. While we enjoyed our beer, he played us a recording on the sound system of his Range Rover of what the engine would sound like once it was running. Something only boat owners would appreciate.

Tomas Serving Black Death Beer

Just as we were finishing our tour of Tomas' house, our friend Johanna and her friend Hildur arrived from Rejkavik. Krystina invited everyone back to Snow Dragon and made quesadillas for a much welcomed midnight snack while everyone chatted. Then we went over with Johanna to her sister's summer house to continue catching up, returning at 4.30 in the morning with the sun shinning on the snow covered mountains, the start of another beautiful day in Siglufjordur.

Leg Of Icelandic Lamb

Krystina woke up early to make Johanna a rum apple birthday cake. Then we went for a quick run on the avalanche defense wall overlooking the town before joining Johanna and Hildur for dinner. They had prepared a lovely feast including leg of lamb served with rhubarb jam, an icelandic tradition. Then headed off to a Blue North Music Festival in Olafsfjorur, a nearby town. Once again returning in the early hours of the morning.

A Local Group Performing, Blue North Music Festival

After a brunch of leftover lamb. The four of us set off to explore the area west of Siglufjordur by car. On the way, we stopped off to see Johanna’s son and daughter who were visiting their father and his family. In true Icelandic fashion, we were warmly welcomed and offered coffee and cake as they showed us the family photo album. Then we moved on to the Icelandic Emigration Center at Hofosm where we learned more about the conditions that caused Icelanders to emigrate to North America and the difficulties they faced when they resettled. 

Before leaving Hofsos, Johanna showed us the spectacular outdoor community pool that was funded by two local residents. The pool gives the impression that it’s flowing into the sea and like all pools in Iceland, is heated by the country’s abundant source of geothermal energy, making it a pleasant place to  swim year-round. Our road trip continued, the only traffic concern were the Icelandic horses being herded along the road 

Icelandic Horse Being Herded

At Grettislaug, a natural hot spring that has been in use since Viking times and the main reason for our adventure. Frances, Johanna and Hildur lingered in the warm water of the stone lined pool. While Krystina was kept amused by a tourist in the Grettislaug Café trying to book a fishing trip but did not understanding why there was no guarantee that fish would be caught.  

Hildur, Johanna And Frances, Grettislaug Hot Spring

The sky was clear and the sun was shinning as we drove back and we decided to stop at the Lonkot Bucolic Resort for a drink so we could enjoy the view of Skagafjordur. One of the owners gave us a tour of the renovated rooms with their elegant detail and just the right amount of bold colors and patterns to give the hotel a memorable character. Originally a sheep and cow farm the hotel is still family owned and they have done a fantastic job renovating the property.

Skagafjordur

This time we returned to Snow Dragon shortly after midnight so that Krystina could pack for a quick trip to England and get an hour's sleep before catching the bus to the airport.

For more photos please click on Siglufjordur Album