Showing posts with label Tromso. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tromso. Show all posts

Sunday, June 21, 2009

North Across the Barents Sea

At the last minute, three new friends that we met in Tromso decided to join us for the trip up to Longyearbyen. After doing the required extra provisioning that comes with having additional hungry bodies on board, we spent three days getting our new friends used to Snow Dragon and Angela, our beloved autopilot before venturing out on the open ocean.

From the moment we left Tromso, the wind was on the nose with the only redeeming quality being that it was strong and consistent enough to maintain a good tack angle. Once on the ocean, the sailing conditions deteriorated and the wind become completely erratic. Snow Dragon went from one intense hail and snow squall to the next followed by gaps of complete calm before getting slammed with another squall, making the crossing one of the more active for her crew. Trying to outwit the wind become our focus as we clawed our way north.

In an effort to get a handle on what the wind gods were planning to do, we sailed close to Bjornoya (Bear Island) and radioed the station there to see if they had a more dependable weather report. Though their report did not tell us anything new or even remotely accurate, the slight detour was well worth it, as we got a clear view of the normally cloud shrouded island basking in blue skies.

At the southern tip of Spitsbergan, we where greeted with our first batch of sea ice which had blown down from the east side of the island. With thirty miles still to go, we decided to go along the edge of the ice instead of picking our way through, watching schools of Harp seals hunt for food as we made our way along to Hornsund Fjord.

Five and a half days after leaving mainland Norway, we dropped anchor in Gashamna Bay and briefly took in our new surroundings before catching up on some much needed rest.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Heading North



Cruising, adventure sailing and expedition travel are a few of the terms that have been used to generalize what we do. Yes, it is true that Snow Dragon is a comfortable, well equipped boat that is designed to go anywhere in the world and we do take her to some pretty cool places. However, Snow Dragon is more complicated than just a method of travel, she is our home, way of life and at times our most demanding team member. Together we have crossed oceans, survived our share of disappointments and have made amazing friends along the way. After spending the past year and a half making our way from Alaska to Europe, Snow Dragon is now ready for the far north and will be spending the next 2-3 months exploring the arctic wilderness of Svalbard.

Svalbard, located just below the North Pole, is heavily regulated and anyone who wishes to go out of the Longyearbyen vicinity, also known as Area 10, without being part of an organized tour must obtain permission from the Sysselmannen (District Governor) before they can proceed. We found the application process to be fairly straight forward but it did take awhile for the Governor's office to respond. All expeditions must be entirely self-sufficient and once the Governor approved our request to explore the area in depth he set a bond of 200,000 NOK ($31,841) to cover potential search and rescue expenses (SAR). We decided to purchase SAR insurance instead of providing a bank guarantee and have spent much of the last week in Tromso organizing the insurance which turned out to be a nonstandard item.

Our plan is to arrive in Svalbard by the second week of June and explore the west coast while we wait for the ice to clear before going around to the east.