Iceland: Sue's Journal Part II

10^th of July

An overcast day. After tidying the apartment we left at 9.15 am to drive to Akureyri a 250 mile journey. We had to be there by 5.30pm to drop off the hire car. The road is single carriageway but well surfaced and engineered all the way. Krystina and Frances shared the driving. We turned off the main road shortly after Borgarnes to visit an old thermal bath (Snorri’s) because Frances has turned into a thermal bath ‘anorak’ since purchasing the book ‘Thermal Pools In Iceland’. 

Frances would like to point out that her enthusiasm for hot springs goes back to 1972 when she first discovered them in Canada and has sought them out in many places including New Calidonia, New Zealand, Svalbard and Greenland.

Sue, Deildartunguhver Hot Spring

I think that Snorri’s bath (Snorri being of significance in medieval Icelandic history) turned out to be rather farther away than Frances had anticipated! However, it took us up a lovely valley, off the beaten track. Eventually we found it, and Frances was somewhat disappointed. The situation was saved by her just happening to notice that there were some thermal springs just along the road. We were very glad that we turned in, as these are the best hot springs in Europe! Boiling water spurting out of rocks in several places. Very dramatic. The hot water is piped to three towns-one is 74km away. This important place is hardly signed-posted. We bought some tomatoes form the near-by hothouses. A lady was selling craft from an old bus and Frances nearly bought another Icelandic sweater. Krystina bought some geo-thermally baked rye bread, which is reputed to be very good.

River Near Reykholt

Someone suggested that we take a short-cut (along the gravel road) to the main road. At first all went well, and I was enjoying being in real Iceland. After several miles, though, the surface deteriorated and having arrived in a very rural farmyard and enquired of the young man there, were advised that a Toyota Yaris was not adequate for the job, and without a four-wheel drive we should retrace our steps. By the time we arrived back at the main road we were a little behind schedule!

However, when we arrived at a lava bed and a couple of extinct volcanic cones we found time for a short walk and a snack. We also had a mid-afternoon coffee stop. The views were constantly changing, but always spectacular. Below the dark volcanic mountains with their huge scree slopes there are lush green pastures. Much haymaking is taking place-or rather haylage-the bales being wrapped in plastic. This country is much more colorful and much less inhospitable than I had anticipated. So many wildflowers.

Frances was driving and she suddenly woke up to the fact that we had another 118km to cover before dropping off the car before 5.30 and catching the bus at 5.45 to Siglufjordur!! No time for photographing now or checking out the possible Slavonian Grebes-or adhering to the 90km/h speed limit! We made it-just-Frances ejected Krystina and me with the luggage, while she went on to the airport to leave the car. She returned in someone’s car a minute before the bus was due. Phew! On checking the bus timetable she discovered that she had read it wrongly and the bus wasn’t due until 7.42pm!! We were able to sit, have a quiet coffee and cake in the lovely civic center overlooking the fjord adjacent to the bus stop. 

We were the only passengers on the bus, it was a beautiful journey for 1 ½ hours along the side of the fjord in the evening sunlight. We had an informative conversation with the bus driver. We arrived at Siglfujordur at 9pm. It was the center of the herring industry throughout the 20^th century until its collapse. Now it is a small quiet fishing town clinging to the bottom of a cliff above the harbour. The construction of three tunnels (one is 7km long) has cut the journey time form Akureyri from 3 hours to just over 1 hour, so it is much more accessible.

Brunch At Johanna's

11^th July

A slow start and a wet day. After calling at the baker’s we went to Johanna’s for brunch at midday. She is staying at her sister’s house, prior to going out to her family house on Flatey. Whilst she is there, she will catch and skin puffins! Every second year she collects eider down form about 500 nests, which she sells to the Japanese. In the afternoon Frances returned to Snow Dragon to complete re-upholstering her seat, and I went with Krystina to the herring museum-which is excellent. Afterwards, it was back to Johanna’s for coffee and pastries and Frances and Johanna sat in the hot tub in the rain, drinking wine. Krystina and I had more sense! Then it was off to a dinner party. Non-stop socializing here! Eight of us had dinner in Halldor and Steinunn’s apartment above her dress shop. A lovely meal, including what could have been horse! It was after 12.30 when we left in daylight with a redwing calling on the roof. Their dog, a Chihuahua usually suspicious of strangers, is in love with me!

 Johaana After A Successful Puffin Hunt

Frances And Johanna Enjoying The Hot Tub In The Rain

Dinner At Halldor's

12^th July

After a shower and hair wash (not a quick process) and breakfast at 10am. I was able to read my book for a while. Frances was working on the engine and Krystina busy with the Snow Dragon blog. Then to the supermarket and back before 1.30 when Johanna and Halldor’s 17 year old daughter Kristin were arriving to go for a sail, with a possibility of seeing whales. We motored out the mouth of the fjord eating lunch on the way and then the sails were hoisted. The cliffs here remind me of those in the N.W. of Skye around Uig. We were accompanied all the way by fulmars. We also saw guillemots, razor bills, puffins and terns. The breeze was light and the sea clam, as we floated gently along at 5 ½ mph.

Sue, Kristin And Johanna

Then I spotted some whales blowing on the horizon, so we headed in that direction. Gradually a group of 6+ moved towards us, followed by a similar sized group. A couple of them surfaced close to the boat. We saw one farther off smacking the water with its tail and rolling on its side. We watched them for more than an hour during which time two small whales crossed in front of Snow Dragon. What and exciting afternoon-and it was free! It was getting chili so Krystina made hot chocolate. Marvelous service on this boat! 

Humpback Whales And Guillemots 

It was a dash to shore and busyness as there was to be dinner for 8 on board. I had met the Freds in Tromso, they had been moored in an adjacent boat. They arrived in Akureyri this afternoon from Norway. Krystina had sent them a text message saying that if they cleared customs in time, they could catch the 4.30pm bus and come for dinner and that Johanna would give them a lift back as she had to meet her 15 year old daughter from the Rekjavik bus. So that’s what happened. A merry evening.

Frances, Sigridur, Fredo, Fred, Anselme, Krystina

At 10pm everyone left. Frances and Krystina went to a Leonard Cohen tribute concert which was just beginning. I opted to stay behind and have some quiet time and catch up with this journal. I managed to complete most of the washing up before going to bed at 12.30 am, just before Frances and Krystina returned.

For more photos please click on Sue's Journal Part II Album