Remains Of The Past

After looking at the options when we left Qaqortoq we opted for Snow Dragon's specialty, inventing an anchorage. We chose Singitsut (60' 44N 46' 12W), a bay that was the site of an Old Norse settlement. The area reminded us of Norway and we wondered if the similarity struck the settlers as well. By the time the anchor was set, the fog had enveloped the remaining patch of blue sky. After dinner we set off for shore and during our walk we found ourselves pondering the unknown fate of the Norse settlers who managed to survive for 450 years before suddenly disappearing. It is a question that has stumped historians and archeologists. One popular theory is that they were defeated by the slow change in climate that brought on harsher winters. Another is that they packed up and went back to Norway or the New World. It will probably remain one of history's greatest secrets but there are still lessons that can be learned from what is known about the Norse settlers. They faced climate change in the form of the little ice age. Instead of taking notice of the longer winters and trying to learn from the Inuit who had the skills to thrive during this time, they maintained their isolation and farming culture, unwilling to adapt.

We motored out of the marginally charted side exit of the bay that took us directly back into the main channel. The wind looked promising so we raised the main and let out the jib. As we sailed along Resolution, the sailboat we had met the day before, motored up beside us. To our surprise on of the crew members asked if the boat used to be docked in San Rafael, California. Turned out he used to walk his dog down the dock every morning where Snow Dragon used to be berthed.

Iceberg Near Narssaq

 The density of icebergs dramatically increased once we turned into Narssaq Sund making us suspect that Srephensens Havn (60' 56N 46' 11W), our planned anchorage was already inhabited. With binoculars we could see the main bay was crowded with bergs but we decided to take a closer look just in case our anchorage, which was an offshoot of the bay had remained ice free. It had a small berg but nothing alarming and we anchored upwind of our icy neighbor.

Snow Dragon At Anchor In Stephensens Havn

After a peaceful night we went to shore to look at the Eskimo ruins which are reputed to be the largest in Greenland with 24 winter houses dating back to 1350. In Greenland though the people refer to themselves as Inuit, they refer to the older remains as Eskimo. All that remained was the evidence of the circular foundations. We walked up to a varde which had a lovely view of the icecap and numerous bergs floating in the sound. On the way down Krystina realized she had dropped 'animal', her fake fur hat. We retraced our way back to the varde, scanning the ground for the well-camouflaged hat. This time we were lucky and were able to find it.

For more photos please click on Stephensens Havn Album.