Labrador: Norman Bay Population 60

                                                                                        

From Cartwright we pushed on to Porcupine Harbour where we spent a peaceful night before making our way through the famed passage known as Squasho Run in the rain and fog. Our guide indicated an intimidating narrow passage between granite walls but we found Squasho to be much wider than some of the minute passages we had already been though in Labrador. On the adrenaline scale Squasho was disappointing but still a glorious passage from an aesthetic point of view with lush forest, colorful rock and bright lichen. It seemed the perfect habitat for bears, caribou or moose but we didn’t see any wildlife in Squasho Run other than a few birds tailing a fishing vessel.

After leaving Squasho Run we wove our way between islands and entered Lady Arm just behind the ferry that was delivering supplies to the community of Norman Bay. With the ferry taking up the dock space we decided to drop anchor, getting Snow Dragon settled just as the ferry departed leaving the dock clear. The waterfront had been swarming with activity as the residents collected the boxes of supplies that were being rapidly offloaded. By the time we dinghyed ashore a few minutes later there was no one to be seen. Old and possibly new washing machines, freezers and other household appliances cluttered the dock and Krystina used one of the rusting freezers as a hand hold when she stepped out of the dinghy. 

We walked along the gravel road that ran through the community, unintentionally ending up in the town dump, not the smartest place to be in an area where black bears are common. On the way back we met Paul, who had just come back from working on his summer cabin up the coast and was on his way to feed his chickens. He invited us to his house for a cup of tea.

Paul has spent 30 years living in Norman Bay and had fished for his livelihood until the cod disappeared. Now he works for the government maintaining ‘the Hydro’ for the community, which is actually 2 diesel generators, but all electricity in Canada seems to be referred to as ‘Hydro’. His wife works on the costal ferry and his 16 year old granddaughter lives with him and attends school in the community. It was fantastic to hear that the school was functioning and that there are a fair number of young people living in the community.

Before we left, Paul gave us a salted cod and asked us if we needed potatoes tea or anything else, insisting that he had plenty of food to spare. Here we were in a small community that is boat access only with no stores offering provisions. It was a special gesture and we thanked Paul for his hospitality, assuring him we didn’t need anything and promised we would stop in and see him next time we’re in Labrador.  

The one thing we forgot to ask Paul was why there were so many election campaign signs posted in Norman Bay, a question that will have to wait until next time.

For more photos please click on Norman Bay Album