Hot Springs With An Icy View

Snow Dragon At Anchor, Unartoq

Rain clouds had already moved in by the time we began making our way to Unartoq, a small rounded island with hot springs that have been famous since the sagas. We anchored off of the isthmus near a house and a few tents that appeared to be for local use. By the time we settled in the rain had reduced to a drizzle and we decided to take the opportunity to check out the island in case the weather continued to deteriorate. As we followed a trail of sheep track prominence that led to the springs, we came across a small group of Greenlanders who were headed in the same direction. We exchanged waves and smiles, our only way to communicate.

It did not take long to reach the pool which was ideally situated on the other side of the isthmus with a clear view of the iceberg inhabited fjord. Frances stayed for a soak, enjoying the warm bubbles that emerged from the sandy bottom. When a few of the bathers jumped out of the pool and ran towards the shore. Frances thought they were going to jump into the sea but when she did not hear any of the screams that usually result from diving into cold water she began to wonder if there was a second spring. Sure enough lower down the stream was a second slightly smaller pool.

Kids Playing In The Top Pool

The weather was still dark and dreary the next morning. Over breakfast we watched the fog cloak one side of the island and then the other. Not wanting to waste the day we decided to go for a hike with the intention of stopping at the hot springs on the way back. The spongy vegetation made our movements more labored than usual and us more aware that our muscles were still adapting to land use. Several small patches or ripe blueberries in a warm out of the wind location gave us an excuse to stop and we picked until the cold wind encouraged us to put our gloves back on and continue moving for warmth.

We found a protected lunch spot in the shelter of a large rock near the top of the island. by the time we had finished eating it was clear that the fog was not going to lift so we decided to head back down just as it began to rain. Both of us were soaking wet by the time we reached the bottom and we decided to go back to the boat to dry out. The rain continued, discouraging us from visiting the hot springs until it let up. To make use of our time, we made two jars of jam out of the blueberries we had picked and had enough berries left over to accompany several breakfasts.

It was still cloudy the following day but the rain had reduced to a more manageable drizzle with brief breaks. We ventured to shore for a soak in the hot springs before moving on. After looking at both pools, Krystina suggested starting in the lower one before moving to the upper which was slightly warmer and had a better view of the icebergs. The short walk between pools seemed a lot longer after sitting in the warm water and we could understand perfectly well why running between pools seemed to be common practice.

For more photos please click on Unartoq Album.