Magdalene's deep water, spectacular glaciers and steep peeks make it one of Svalbard's most famous fjords. With Trinityhamna, a 17th Century whaler burial ground being a popular shore stop. Over the years, thousands of tourists have walked among the graves without regard for the soft soil and fragile vegetation beneath their feet.
The devastation to both the vegetation and the grave site prompted the Sysellmennen to take the unusual action of surrounding the graveyard with a fence. While we were there, none of the cruise ships that came into the fjord disembarked but even so there was evidence of heavy foot traffic.
The Arctic terns provide their own security. When we tried to walk along the beach they immediately attempted to attack us. This was the first time that we found terns in Svalbard to be aggressive and they were clearly tired of being disturbed, even though we were a respectful distance from their nests.
It was quite sad seeing the fence, which looked completely out of place in a fjord that is known for its natural beauty. With care, the vegetation will return but some estimate that it could take up to 200 years. Time will tell but it is a clear reminder that Svalbard is still struggling to find the right balance between tourism and conservation.
For more photos of Magdalene please click on Magdalenefjord Album.
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