Imagine sailing along a beautiful snow covered fjord, then suddenly the water turns brown and the sky darkens to a menacing shade of black. A mysterious ghost ship appears out of the fog, its name written in a alphabet you cannot read. Welcome to Barentsburg, one of the few places where you can still get a taste of the USSR.
Since 1932 the coal field has been Russian property and except for a brief period during WWII, has remained a active mine. Over the years Barentsburg has become Russia’s main focus in Spitsbergen. Including during the Cold War when a KGB unit and several helicopters were stationed there. After the fall of the Soviet Union, the cash stopped and Barentsburg was left to fend for its self.
On top of financial hardships the town has also had to endure two serious accidents in recent years. In 1996 a plane carrying miners and their families to Barentsburg crashed, killing all 143 on board. A year later a mining accident killed 23 workers. Both tragic events took a toll on the population and spirit of the community. When we visited the mine had just reopened after a fire. The town has started to recover from its various set backs but the mine is becoming worked out.
There is nothing redeeming about the town other than the very nice Russian people who work there. Barely maintained buildings and piles of rusted equipment attest to the neglect Barentsburg has suffered. The electrical installation is unique, if not down right scary. Even the coffee leaves a lot to be desired.
The main highlights are a token statue of Lenin and the Pomor Museum. Pomors were hunters from the north coast of Russia. It is claimed that Pomors made trips to Spitsbergen before its discovery by the Dutch in 1596.
Overall Barentsburg is more of a political wildcard than a tourist destination. Russia clearly desires to be a major player in the arctic and it is unlikely they will ever give up their foothold in Spitsbergen. In the coming years Russia intends to expand its presence and is considering opening a new mine. This plan has not made environmentalists happy and many hope Russia will loose interest in the project.
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