Beautiful Island, Strong Wind

The west side of Edgeoya was spectacular and unpredictable. Shortly after arriving it began to rain. The rain quickly turned into sleet and settled as snow at higher elevations. By midnight the snow was fifty meters from sea level but the morning sun melted all traces of winter’s brief appearance.

Unusually little swell allowed for an easy beach landing and we were able to explore the area. From lush green terrain to basalt cliffs and flat rock with fossils, the landscape varied throughout our hike. On top of the mountain we found a tripod with scientific instruments and six ptarmigan, almost invisible in their brown summer plumage. There was no haze and we had a clear view of the glaciers and ice caps thirty-six miles away on Spitsbergen’s east coast.

On the way down we encountered two curious reindeer who showed no sign of being disturbed by us. In between mouthfuls of grass they wandered closer. Their antlers were still covered in velvet and they were close enough that photographing with a macro lens was not a disadvantage.  

The following day the wind started to pick up and by the time we decided to put more anchor chain out, it was blowing fifty knots and our anchor snubber had snapped from the force. On deck it was difficult to see and impossible to communicate. The wind drowned out our voices and the spray felt like sharp needles on our minimally exposed skin. In the process of letting out more scope, we destroyed our anchor windlass motor. Which meant that until we got back to civilization, the anchor would have to be pulled manually.     

Quest, an expedition ship came into the anchorage next to us, we called them on the radio and asked if they had a weather update. They informed us that wind would drop later in the evening and the captain recommended that we not move as there were 2.7 meter seas once outside the shelter of the island. The weather fax that we pulled in listed no gale warnings even though we had over forty-five knots of sustained wind. After thirty-six hours of strong wind and little sleep, conditions began to improve and we were able to get the dinghy on deck in preparation for moving. Our anchor was holding but the violent snatching made it impossible to sleep until the wind reduced to a sensible level.      

We left Edgeoya with the intention of going to Hornsund to visit the Polish Research Station before heading back to Norway. While Snow Dragon bobbed off the tip of Spitsbergen in little wind, we pulled in a weather fax and noticed good conditions for crossing the Barents Sea. It was now the end of August and solid weather windows were becoming rare. Though it would have been nice to see our friends at the Polish Research Station, we were not about to pass up the opportunity to cross the Barents with favorable wind.

For more photos of Edgeoya please click on Edgeoya Album. 

Bones and Flowers

The tidal current was against us when we entered Freemansund late in the evening. Instead of fighting it, we anchored on the northeast side of the passage and took the opportunity to explore the island of Barentsoya while we waited for the tide to turn. Before going to bed we made a quick shore trip and were surprised by the lush vegetation.

On the way back to the dinghy we discovered a polar bear skull and spine. The light was not great and we returned to shore the following morning to photograph the vegetation and polar bear remains in better light. An injured reindeer on the hill above got up briefly to check us out but soon returned to its resting position. The limp in his hind leg looked serious and it appeared unlikely that he would make it through the winter.

Back on the boat we sat down to have lunch. As we were looking out of the pilothouse window enjoying the view, a large male polar bear walked across the area where we had been photographing an hour before. To our surprise he walked right past the injured reindeer, obviously more interested in where he was going than finding food. Though his pace was casual, he covered ground quickly with his long stride.

That evening we transited Freemansund with a favorable tidal current and anchored in Sundbukta on the southeast side of Barentsoya. Submerged rocks and surge made getting to shore the following morning difficult but we eventually found a protected beach to land on. The hilly terrain provided poor creature visibility and we kept to the shore, minimizing our chances of surprising a polar bear. Neither of us had any desire to get a closer look at the sizable bear that we had seen the previous day.  

The ground was scattered with whale bones that had washed ashore from whaling stations in the vicinity. Their bleached white color and size made them easy to spot amongst the green and gold vegetation. Slabs of brown rock, kept us out of the mud and made for easy movement while we walked amongst the remains.

For more photos of Barentsoya please click on Barentsoya Album. 

Unexpected Overtime

By day three of our transit down Hinlopen Strait, we were feeling confident about making it through. After spending the previous two days trying to gain ground against the wind, Snow Dragon found herself enjoying a nice northerly breeze and was happily sailing downwind with little ice to worry about.

The view was humbling as we glided along Valhalifonna Glacier with its vast ice cliff staring down at us. Over four miles long, Valhalifonna was one of the most impressive glaciers that we have seen. Even the fog that began to set in could not detract from its powerful presence.

After the wall of ice and fog came the bird cliff Alkefjella. Birds filled the air around their favored nesting place. While others stopped for a rest on the drift ice which was becoming more prevalent as we continued south. Scanning the cliff, we saw an ambitious polar bear climbing the steep rock in search of eggs. The snow had almost disappeared from the cliff face and the intense green that took its place made it easy to spot the white bear. 

Towards the end of our day the terrain changed to dark, spiky volcanic rock. From an aesthetic point of view it was nice to see the dramatic change in landscape but the random variation in the contours continued underneath the water. Not only is good holding difficult to find with an uneven bottom, sudden dramatic changes in depth make looking for a spot potentially hazardous in an incompletely charted area.

We made several abortive attempts before finding consistent depth in the lee of the island Von Otter Oya near Hinlopen Glacier. After setting the anchor at midnight, we stayed up for a few hours to enjoy the bright sunlight and to unwind from the previous twelve hours of great sailing before going to sleep. Everything seemed peaceful but thirty minutes after we went to bed, a loud bang shook the boat and Krystina got up to find several ice sheets pushing against Snow Dragon. Frances immediately went out to pull the anchor and Krystina could hear the ice pushing up underneath Snow Dragon’s bow as she stowed the chain in the forepeak.

Anchorage at Von Otter Oya, shortly after leaving. 

Getting the anchor up from underneath the ice turned out to be the easy part. Our first instinct was to analyze the situation and come up with a course of action but when Krystina glanced over her shoulder and saw fog rolling in from the north, moving quickly become our only option. The last thing we needed was to be in a whiteout with ice pushing us towards land and not be able to see a lead through. 

Using her engine, Snow Dragon plowed away from the island before visibility decreased. Once a safe distance from land, she began picking through ice under sail. Our senses were on overload trying to listen for other ships and find leads. After five hours we sailed out of the fog and though the density of the ice was greater, it was much easier to see where we needed to go.

Frances managed to get a short nap but Krystina’s was cut short when Snow Dragon got stuck in the ice while under sail. She had firmly nestled herself into a large ice sheet that turned out not to be breakable. Though turning the engine on and reversing detached Snow Dragon from the ice’s embrace, it became evident that both of us needed to be on deck. One behind the wheel and the other scoping out leads from the foredeck, trying to differentiate between solid and breakable ice. Candy, copious amounts of tea and the concentration demanded by the task at hand, helped keep us awake. 

Though sleep was a constant thought, it did not prevent us from appreciating our surroundings. The sky was alive with color. Amongst the blue, bands of yellow and orange brightening the horizon. While the fog helped to emphasize Svalbard’s subtle beauty, drawing our attention to intricate, sculptural detail in the ice that confronted Snow Dragon. 

After twenty hours of pretending to be an icebreaker, the ice became manageable and we began looking for another anchorage. The north side of Barentsoya looked like a good spot. Shortly after settling in, the ice drifted down on us, leaving no choice but to keep moving.

We spotted Antarctic Dream, an expedition ship, and called them on the radio to see if they had a current ice report. They did and according to the latest ice chart, Hinlopen Strait and Freemansund were open water. Snow Dragon had been in ice up to eighty percent in Hinlopen and Antarctic Dream just to the east, was in fifty percent ice. After exchanging our views on the accuracy of the ice chart we continued to head for Freemansund, the passage between Barentsoya and Edgeoya, not knowing what we would find.

Forty hours after leaving our anchorage by Valhalifonna Glacier, we finally found a spot near Freemansund, on the east side of Barentsoya where we could safely stop and rest. Before dropping anchor Frances got the net out and retrieved a few small pieces of ice from the water for celebratory drinks. After toasting Dick Koopmans, for designing an amazing boat that always exceeds our high expectations, we enjoyed our much needed rest.

For more photos of Hinlopen Strait please click on Hinlopen Album. 

Final Attempt

After removing the kelp from our anchor we began making our way to Hinlopen Strait. Getting out of Murchisonfjord was an excellent warm up for the conditions we were likely to face in Hinlopen. The mouth of the fjord was packed with ice and Snow Dragon had to break and push her way through. There was not a lot of room to adjust our course due to islands, under water obstacles and seals laying out on the ice that we did not want to disturb.

The seals did not seem bothered by Snow Dragon’s presence and we would occasionally break our concentration on the ice to watch them nap or wiggle around on their chosen resting place. As Frances was watching one of the seals she saw a dark shadow and almost simultaneously the seal jumped in the water as a polar bear appeared. The bear leaped in the water after its prey but was unable to catch up with the slick seal.       

Once in Hinlopen we were happy to find the west side fairly clear. We were relieved to be finally heading down the straight but knew that at any point the ice conditions could change and force us to retreat. The wind was light and coming from the south. After tacking back and forth between the ice and not covering a lot of distance we decided to look for an anchorage.

Anchoring was a big unknown. We had scanned our charts, marking several possibilities but there are few official anchorages in Hinlopen and areas near the shore are rarely charted. In the end we found a nice uncharted bay with good holding.

Taking advantage of the calm conditions, we changed the fresh water pump and the alternator for the engine. The alternator was wearing out belts and had not been charging. Unfortunately the new parts did not resolve the charging problem but did reduce the wear on the belt which prevented the more serious problem of the engine overheating. This left Snow Dragon dependent on her generator as the only viable source of power.

A southerly breeze picked up the following morning and though it was not a favorable wind direction, Snow Dragon continued to work her way south under sail. The ice remained light on the western side of the passage but since we were tacking we came close to the heavy ice on the east side. When the wind died, we dropped anchor beside Valhalifonna Glacier with waterfalls cascading down its ice face and a sliver of sandy beach in the foreground.

Surprising Vardes

Our exploration at Murchisonfjord on Nordaustland was inspired by a varde, that peered down over our anchorage at Kinnvika.  Frances has a theory that vardes, Norwegian for cairn, are lonely and need company.  Or at least that is what she tells Krystina to convince her that going up a steep mountain is a good idea. Somehow the story about lonely piles of rocks needing a surprise visit never fails.

With our plan in place we had to wait long enough to make sure Snow Dragon was happy in her new ice filled anchorage. By the next morning we were confident that the ice was harmless and we set off for shore. Aware that the bay could potentially fill with more ice, we left our dinghy near Snow Dragon instead of going across the bay.

We didn’t get very far before another varde caught our attention. This varde looked particularly lonely sitting on its hill and we decided to pay a visit even though it was in the opposite direction of our intended route. It gave us a good view of the northwest corner of Nordoustland which was still surrounded by drift ice, making it easy to imagine the less than 600 miles of sea and ice that separated us from the North Pole. 

It was too windy to eat lunch with the varde so we headed back down and found a nice spot near a salt water lake that was out of the wind but still gave us decent polar bear visibility. Up to this point the terrain had been fairly easy and only slightly deteriorated to more uneven rock as we continued. With shades of red and yellow remaining evident in the landscape throughout our hike.  

As we made our way to the spine of the mountain, Krystina sensed something coming towards us and spun around. It was an arctic fox running up to us at full speed. The fox stopped just a few feet away and danced around. It was highly unusual behavior for an animal that is normally very shy. Frances stood there staring in disbelief while Krystina calmly rationalized the situation. At this point it was not clear what the fox’s intentions were or whether or not it was rabid. Krystina got a flare out of her pocket in case the fox needed encouragement to leave and reminded Frances that she might want to take some photos. 

The fox looked healthy and was either curious or had been fed by people. It was difficult not give it food but we knew that feeding it was the wrong thing to do. Instead we enjoyed its company until the fox grew tired of us and ran back towards the old scientific research station at the head of the bay.

After the fox left, we continued up to our inspirational varde where we ate our remaining sandwich and got a good look at the north end of Hinlopen Strait. We could see that the past two days of southerly wind had cleared most of the ice on the west side and decided that we would make an attempt the following day. 

On our way to leave, we caught sight of another varde, further out on the point. This time we tried to be reasonable, after all we had already walked a long way and our remaining food supply consisted of two caramels and a couple dried apricots. However, our sensible reasoning soon gave way to, “what the hell” and we altered course once again to accommodate another varde into our afternoon stroll.    

This one overlooked the ice scattered Murchisonfjord and a spectacular large ice cap that peaked through the snow patched mountains. As an added bonus our path down took us past another varde, giving us one more look at the tempting lead down Hinlopen. Mosquitoes prevented us from lingering and we briskly walked back down to avoid being bitten.

Four vardes and fifteen miles later, we made it back to Snow Dragon who was surrounded by sea ice. Before we could contemplate how we were going to get on board, the ice sheet at her stern politely moved out of the way just long enough for us to the pull the dinghy up and Snow Dragon spent another peaceful night with the ice gently moving around her. 

 For more photos of Murchison please click on Murchisonfjord Album. 

Turning Point

Sorgfjord was where we struggled with the decision of whether or not to make another attempt at Hinlopen Strait. Our first try was aborted when Lady Be Good, a Norwegian sailboat that we shared an anchorage with in Sorgfjord, radioed and told us that Hinlopen was choked with ice. They had called the Norwegian met. office who told them that there was no chance of it clearing that week. We had barely entered the strait but could already see the edge of the dense ice that was keeping the area closed.

Back at Sorgfjord we saw Noorderlicht and once again sought their opinion. They agreed that Hinlopen was not passable and insisted that “only god knows when it will be open”. The God news they gave us was that the north entrance of Murchinsonfjord was clear enough to get into Kinnvika.  

At this point going to Kinnvika was the only navigational decision we could agree on.  Frances was considering turning around after Murchinsonfjord and going back down Svalbard’s west coast. She was tired of the relentless gray, rainy weather and the thick fog which appeared almost daily. These conditions made the beautiful pink rock, easy walking on the raised beaches and the varying shades of green in the hills a distant memory. Krystina on the other hand wanted to give Hinlopen another shot and was sure that Frances did too if she could just get her mind of the weather which admittedly was pretty discouraging.

We agreed to make the final decision based on fuel reserves.  After calculating our remaining diesel we came to the conclusion that we could wait two weeks at the most before running low. In the mean time we would not move from Sorgfjord unless it could be done under sail.  

The weather continued to be uninspiring during our eight day stay in the fjord. At times the fog was so thick that it made trips to shore unadvisable. If we could not see five feet in front of us, how were we supposed to avoid  polar bears? We would supplement our shore time by exploring from the dinghy but even that had to be done with caution as the low visibility made it easy to get disoriented.  

For more photos please click on Sorgfjord Album. 

 

Remote Anchorage Complete With Company

We stopped at Mushamna, on our way out of Woodfjord, mainly because the anchorage, a completely sheltered lagoon with a tight entrance, sounded intriguing. The entrance between two sandbanks was very narrow and with all eyes glued to the depth sounder, Snow Dragon slowly made her way in. Depth turned out not to be a problem and it took some time to find a suitable anchor spot in the deep lagoon.

After dinner we wandered over to the large abandoned cabin that we noticed on our way into the bay. As we walked down the hill, Frances thought she saw a dog near the cabin but it did not seem to be moving and she concluded that it must be a piece of furniture. After negotiating the river that separated us from the cabin we were surprised to see a person walking around the cabin.

A woman motioned for us to go around the other way, moving her arms up and down to indicate that there were birds in the area that she wanted us to avoid. Later explaining they were recently hatched eider chicks, well camouflaged and easy to step on. She introduced herself as Tove but we came to know her as the “Summer Substitute Trapper Lady”.

After giving us a tour we settled down outside in the warm sunshine with wine and homemade apple cake as Tove told us about the cabin’s history. It was built by a trapper who used the cabin extensively for ten years before selling it to the Sysellmennen. Tove was substituting for a friend who had permission to use it for a year. Though trappers continue to be interested in using the cabin and are even willing to pay to be there, the Sysellmennen is closing it down for a season in order to discuss its future.

One criticism we heard repeatedly during our time in Spitsbergen is that the Sysellmennen’s regulations let buildings deteriorate that otherwise could be put to good use. The cabin at Mushamna is not old enough to be considered an historical site and it is really unclear why the cabin cannot continue to be used while various possibilities are debated. Trapping is an important part of Svalbard’s history and a tradition that residents feel should be kept alive.

Anyone who stays there must be completely self sufficient and be prepared to deal with frequent polar bear visits. Including hungry bears who really don’t care how much fire power you have. The reward is being able to live and trap in a spectacular area. Along with breath taking scenery, the cabin’s beach log construction gives it a wonderful character that matches the fjord. Its unusually spacious interior makes it very comfortable but difficult to heat during the winter.

Our time in Svalbard was soon coming to an end and so was Tove’s. After spending several years living in both Longyearbyen and Ny-Alesund, Tove decided to move back to Trondheim where she grew up. We have to agree that spending several months in a remote cabin is a special way to say goodbye to Spitsbergen.       

The following morning we anchored Snow Dragon near the cabin and Tove came on board for brunch. Over scrabbled eggs, bacon, fruit and fresh baked orange muffins we continued our conversation from the previous night like old friends. It would not surprise us if Tove ends up spending time on Snow Dragon and we certainly plan to accept her invitation to visit her in Trondheim.

       For more photos please click on Mushamna Album. 

Cold Disappointment, Interesting Location

Our main mission in Woodfjord was to visit the hot springs at Vulkanhamna. Frances loves hot springs and once Snow Dragon was comfortably anchored, she was ready to go ashore. Krystina is far less fanatical but none the less she rushed up the hill ahead to check them out. Upon reaching the top of the colorful sinter terraces, she found three small lukewarm pools, barely large enough for an arctic tern to bathe in. Frances was disappointed but took it in her stride and we turned our attention to the fjord’s other features.

The area above the hot springs was rich in vegetation, unlike the rest of the fjord. Including several varieties of plants and flowers that we had not seen before. After exploring the mountainside, we took to the beach, walking on colorful pebbles below the red sandstone mountains.

The large amount of wood that washes up on shore from the vast Siberian rivers, gives the fjord its name. Seeing so many logs on the beach makes it easy to forget that Svalbard is above the arctic tree line. During our wander through the area we examined several pieces of drift wood. All of which showed evidence of being milled or cut, almost none of the wood was from uprooted trees.

Along with the drift wood which has been an important resource for building shelters throughout Svalbard’s history. Large amounts of trash also wash ashore in Woodford and many other areas in Svalbard. From what we could tell the trash originated in Russia, Norway and the UK. A large portion of it was fishing debris including line, floats and nets but there were also milk crates and yogurt containers. When we burn our trash on the beach, we try to add some of the shore trash. Doing so makes us feel better but it is only a very small contribution.

For more photos of Woodfjord please click on Woodfjord Album.

 

Blog Update

We are back in Norway with internet access and will finish our Svalbard adventures before moving on to Norway. Photos will be added to previous posts as time permits. 

A Taste Of Winter

On our way around to the north coast we started to see sea ice fairly far south at 79° 52N 10° 56E. There were some large pieces but there were good leads and we were able to sail through without reducing our speed.

We were not surprised by the ice.  Before leaving Danskoya, Albatross, a Dutch yacht that we met in Lonyearbyen called on the radio and told us that they were unable to go around to the east coast due to heavy ice.

Our only concern was how far along the north coast we could go before running into too much ice. We were sailing along on a very comfortable reach and the ice was up wind of us, killing the swell even though there was 20 knots of wind. During our deliberations we caught sight of the Dutch schooner Noorderlicht, a veteran of the Svalbard waters and called them on the radio to inquire how far they had been able to get.  They were also unable to go around but told us that we should have no problem getting into Liefdefjord.

Once our anchor hit bottom at Worsleyhamma in Liefdefjord, it began to snow. The winter atmosphere had us both humming Christmas carols as we hibernated on Snow Dragon while we waited for the impromptu blizzard to end. It was mostly peaceful except for the loud bangs created by large chunks of ice falling out of Snow Dragon’s rig as the snow built up and froze. Two days later, the snow finally stopped and the skies cleared.   

We moved over to the island group of Andoyane, after hearing one of the expedition ships on the radio say that there was a polar bear and cub on one of the islands.  The mother bear made several appearances but the cub was no where in site. Or at least we think the large bear we saw was fully grown and not the two year old cub. 

The weather remained spectacular and was warm enough that we were able to have dinner on deck. Frances had just pulled fresh baked French bread out of the oven which we accompanied with fondue and carrot raisin salad. It was an excellent meal as we took in an increasingly rare glimpse of summer weather before the wind chill increased and we had to scurry back inside.

To get some exercise we dinghied over to one of the other islands, landing only after circumnavigating to make sure it was bear free. The island was hilly enough that Krystina did her normal routine of walking up to higher ground with the rifle to make sure no white and furry creatures were hiding, while Frances secured the dinghy. The moss covered island made for easy walking and its flower and bird life were so rich that we made two visits to take it all in before heading over to Woodfjord.  

For more pictures of Liefdefjord, please click on Liefdefjord Album.